Australia’s cheapest mayonnaise is also best tasting, Choice test finds
Consumer group Choice taste-tested 29 store-bought mayonnaises and found Aldi’s Colway Real Mayonnaise, the cheapest per 100g, tied for first with Woolworths Whole Egg Mayonnaise at 80%. Coles 97% Fat Free Mayonnaise ranked last at 47%.
Aldi’s Colway Real Mayonnaise costs $2.79 a jar, or 61c per 100g, the lowest price per unit in the test. Judges praised its 'mild' and 'pleasant' aroma and 'traditional mayonnaise appearance', while noting a 'creamy, smooth texture with balanced citrus acidity, subtle sweetness, mustard and whole-egg flavour'.
Woolworths Whole Egg Mayonnaise also scored 80%, with judges citing 'good shape retention' and a 'balanced flavour with pleasant vinegar acidity, sweetness, oil and mustard'. It costs slightly more at $2.80 a bottle, or 64c per 100g.
The silver medal went to Aldi’s Colway Authentic Mayonnaise, which scored 77% and costs 78c per 100g. Judges remarked on its 'homogeneous texture with a balanced flavour of mustard, vinegar and fat', although judge and food consultant Brigid Treloar told Guardian Australia she noted its slightly orange appearance, like it had 'been under the sunlamps'.
Treloar was one of three judges, along with chef Serkan Tamcelik and food technologist Petra Sugiarto. She said the products were assessed for their appearance — 'Does it dollop?' — smell, and whether the flavour was creamy, smooth and balanced. She also considered whether the mayonnaises were properly emulsified. 'In some of them, it was like … here’s a little bit of salt, here’s a little bit of sugar, here’s a little bit of oil, but it didn’t come together.'
The worst-ranked product was Coles 97% Fat Free Mayonnaise at 47%. Judges gave it the wooden spoon for its 'translucent, pale appearance' and 'thick, gummy, glue-like consistency'. 'It was so sweet', Treloar said. The mayonnaise has a sugar content of 18.9g per 100g, at least double the sugar content of almost all the other tested products. Praise 99% Fat Free Traditional Mayo had the highest sugar content overall, with 20.9g per 100g, but still scored 63%.
Choice’s taste test found that 27 of the 29 mayonnaises contained sugar, which is not traditionally found in French-style mayonnaise. Speaking generally, Treloar said that due to cost, some mayonnaise manufacturers might use thickening or emulsifying agents to achieve a desired texture and mouthfeel. French mayonnaise typically comprises egg yolks and a neutral-tasting oil, as well as lemon or vinegar, and dijon mustard.
Kewpie, which Treloar acknowledged has a 'diehard' fanbase, was given a middle-of-the-pack score of 67%. Treloar said that compared with the other products, Kewpie was more 'savoury', with a more prominent soya bean oil flavour. Comprising 9.5% egg yolk, Kewpie had the highest egg content of the tested mayonnaises.
Some products did not contain egg at all and are therefore suitable for vegans. The best vegan mayonnaise was Hellmann’s Plant Based Mayo, which scored 77% and received an overall equal-third ranking. Judges said it had a 'thick and glossy appearance', although it was 'slightly gummy' on the palate.
Treloar said the taste test was one of the 'most gruelling' she has done. 'Certainly doing 29 mayonnaises, I was pacing myself, because it can make you feel quite sick.'
Editor's Summary Choice’s taste test of 29 mayonnaises found Aldi’s Colway Real Mayonnaise, the cheapest per 100g, tied for first with Woolworths Whole Egg Mayonnaise at 80%, while Coles 97% Fat Free Mayonnaise finished last at 47%. The results showed that 27 of the 29 products contained sugar, which is not traditional in French-style mayonnaise. Aldi’s Colway Authentic Mayonnaise and Hellmann’s Plant Based Mayo were among the other high scorers.