Pickled onions enjoy UK revival as Britons think outside the jar

In the 12 weeks to early August, the value of pickled onion sales rose 12% year on year, compared with 4% growth across total grocery. Higher prices contributed to the increase, but demand is strengthening: about 300,000 more households bought pickled onions and more than 550,000 additional shopping trips were made to buy them.

Pickles more broadly are moving beyond their traditional role as a side or accompaniment to become a flavour and ingredient in their own right. Michelin-star chefs are using them in dishes, and this weekend marks the launch of London's first major festival dedicated to pickling and fermentation, the Big Brine.

James Goodyear, head chef at the Michelin-starred restaurant Gordon Ramsay High, said there is a resurgence around pickling and preserving. He said palates have evolved, so diners naturally crave the sharp, mouthwatering punch of acidity and crunch to cut through richer dishes. Social media has demystified the craft, he said, and growing curiosity around gut health and natural fermentation has made people far more eager to explore beyond the basic supermarket jar. He said guests care about sustainability, and having jars quietly working away on the shelves is a smarter way of running a restaurant. It lets chefs celebrate every part of an ingredient and completely rethink surplus, he added.

Molly Scanlan, 39, from London, is attending the Big Brine this weekend with her son and has noticed newer pickle brands in the supermarket. She recently even noticed in a meal deal the option of a plastic sachet of snacking cornichons. Scanlan has been a fan of pickled foods from a young age. She says her son loves pickles and also likes kimchi. Gherkins are her longstanding favourite, but she says there is growing interest in a much wider range of fermented foods, with products such as kimchi and sauerkraut becoming more widely available. Part of the appeal, she says, is that you can pickle anything.

Ocado data shows the pickles, gherkins and olives category is up 30% year on year, while fresh pickled and fermented products have grown 16%. Some individual products have had even more dramatic increases: raw organic fresh ginger and lemon sauerkraut rose 393%, Opies cocktail gherkins rose 305%, Baxters sliced beetroot rose 246%, and Epicure spicy crinkle-cut pickles rose 242%.

Matt Harris, founder of the London-based food brand Pickle Project, which makes small-batch, handcrafted pickles using an ultrasonic brining process, said the brand was created to bring energy and fun to an old-fashioned category. Despite pickles having a moment, what is available on supermarket shelves is very traditional, he said. Harris has introduced flavours such as deli dill pickle chips and is experimenting with ultrasound technology to extract flavours from herbs and spices during the brining process. The brand has launched with Ocado and Whole Foods Market, and Harris said it has experienced huge growth over the past nine months.

Kat Goldin, co-founder of the pickle brand Goat Rodeo Goods, said the company has seen around 11-times growth in sales over the last year, which has been massive for it. She added that this fits into a wider lipstick effect culture: people may be cutting back on grocery spending, but they still want to add a little luxury or something special to everyday meals. A nice condiment or pickle can make a simple sandwich or salad feel more exciting without being a huge purchase, she said.

The pickle boom is also spawning entirely new formats, including the UK's first pickle sparkling water. Within its first week at Planet Organic, Yew sparkling water became the retailer's bestselling soft drink, outselling even bottled water, while the brand says retailers have reported customers specifically asking for the pickle flavour.