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Young Ghanaians reclaim Indigenous food through movement

Ghana Food Movement, founded by young chefs, promotes Indigenous ingredients like moringa and tigernut to counter foreign food dependency and colonial influence.

AI News Feed · 2026-08-26 19:39

Abiro Wisdom, a catering school graduate, joined the GFM after realizing that his training focused almost entirely on French, Italian, and Mexican cuisine, leaving no room for the nutritious foods he grew up with in northern Ghana. "I didn't see myself there," he said of the international hotel sector. "I felt I wouldn't be myself working there – I wouldn't be able to talk about the food from where I come from."

The movement works to show the potential of crops such as moringa leaves and tiger nuts, which are adapted to local conditions and require no extra agricultural inputs. Aimee Wallin, the group's Malian-Swedish co-managing director, pointed out that traditional tigernut milk can be transformed into tigernut burgers and kebabs. "We want people to taste what we are about, not just talk about what we are about," she said.

Ghana imports at least half of its food, a legacy of colonial policies that prioritized cash crops for export and devalued local farming. Wallin argued that postcolonial dependence remains deliberate: "Part of the postcolonial agenda is for us to still have to depend on other countries. If it's not to buy their products, to buy their vegetables, then at least we need to buy their seeds and their pesticides and their fertilisers."

The group also targets younger Ghanaians drawn to international trends like matcha lattes and bubble tea by offering alternatives such as moringa lattes and tigernut shawarma. Wisdom hopes to create a generation of chefs who believe in Ghanaian food and its identity. "We have to be able to tell the story of the food," he said.

This month, the GFM won a Champions of Change title in the 50 Best Restaurants Awards in recognition of its work. According to The Guardian, the movement is part of a broader effort to "take back the power" of food and build self-sufficiency.